By Susan Schnier
Last updated: October 2007
In This Article
A mid-winter thaw peppers a previously pristine snow slope with rock, but you're no fair-weather skier. You're arcing perfect turns, proud of your resolve, when you hear a loud Chhrreccchh. Don't panic, as repairing a gouge in your ski or snowboard base is relatively easy for a do-it-yourselfer. Here is a step-by-step look at what to do.
Watch our how-to video! (3:55)
Assess the Damage: What Should You Fix?
How do you know what's doable at home versus what you should take to the shop? Dik Lang, REI Seattle's ski shop master tech, advises: "Think like a doctor: If you have a headache, take an aspirin. But if you break an arm, don't attempt surgery on yourself."
To make the call, take a good look at the gouge.
- If the gouge is shallow or mid-depth and does not touch the edge, use the steps here to have at it yourself.
- If you have the hard sintered (compressed) bases found on many high-end skis, take these repairs to a ski shop such as REI. The P-Tex repairs described here may not bond well to these bases.
- If the P-Tex pops out, or if the gouge is cavernous and touches the core or the edge, bring these repairs to a ski shop such as REI.
- For a shallow scratch (less than 1/2mm deep), it's usually OK (and definitely easiest!) to ignore it.
- If your bases have been scratched and repaired many times, bring your skis to a ski shop for a stone grinding. A grind will flatten and smooth your bases and put in a structure or pattern for more speed.
If you decide the repair is within your reach, read on for next steps.
- Vise
- Base cleaner (or rubbing alcohol will work too)
- Metal scraper (substitutes like a putty knife may work, but a sharp and durable scraper is best)
- Polyethylene (P-Tex) repair candle (available in black and clear)
- Propane torch, butane lighter or household candle
- Razor blade
- Sandpaper
Prepare the Base
- Turn the ski base-up and tighten the vise around the middle of the ski to hold it securely in place.
- Check out the damage. If there are loose strands of base material around the hole, slice them off carefully with a razor blade.
- Use your metal scraper to remove any extra wax.
- If the gouge is big enough, rough up the inside with sandpaper.
- Clean the wound with a base cleaner and a small wire brush to get rid of dirt and rock. Let the base cleaner dry completely (about 20 minutes to an hour).
Fill in the Gouge
- Using your propane torch or butane lighter, fire up one tip of the P-Tex candle.
- Wait until it's flaming (this may take a minute or two). Black carbon flakes will appear in the burning tip. Don't let them get into your bases because they will cause the P-Tex to bond poorly. To get them out of the way, let the candle drip onto the metal scraper and roll the tip around until it's clear and carbon-free. Keeping the flame low and blue instead of big and yellow will keep carbon at bay.
- Move the molten P-Tex candle to the gouge. Hold it close to the surface (about ½ inch above) and let it flow into the hole. Start at the far edge so it pools in the middle. The P-Tex will shrink as it cools, so overfill it.
- Do a second round if necessary. You're done with the flame so extinguish it.
- Let the P-Tex cool (about 15 minutes).
- Take a sharpened metal scraper with a 90° edge and hold it at 45° angle. Use short, overlapping strokes to remove all material that is sticking up above the base of the ski. You can go in either direction, what ever works best.
- Wrap sandpaper around a block and rub the area to flatten completely.
- When the P-Tex is smooth and flush with the base, you're ready to wax and then go hit the mountain.
Contributor: Dik Lange, REI Seattle master ski tech